Stretch pieces for The Shins

Awhile back, we did a project for production designer Stanley Elleflot, for The Shins, and Stanley was gracious enough to recently send us some photos.  It was one of those deceptively simple projects that turn out to be amazing in production.

Using 120″ wide FR White Stretch Fabric (similar to Cambio! fabric), we slit 12 strips of the material to a finished size of 30′ h x 18″ w.  The tops were finished with webbing, grommets & ties, as well as 1″ Velcro, while the bottoms had open pipe hems.  The sides were left unfinished.

Sounds simple, right?  Well, take a look at how dramatic these simple stretch strips look in concert:

Photo Courtesy Stanley Effelot

The strips were hung from truss at with pipes at the bottom for weight.  I think that the impact of the repeating element of the strips, along with the gorgeous lighting of yellows and oranges, is really gorgeous!  Here’s a close up shot:

Photo Courtesy Stanley Effelot and The Shins

I also love the way the lighting designer is able to constantly change the colors of the strips throughout the song in this video - check it out!   This really is a versatile option for set design, whether as the primary design for or as one element in a more complex set design.

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Electronic Samples??

Do you need to touch a textile in order to fully appreciate it?  Or is there a way to photograph it or shoot video of it in order to show off the properties of the cloth?

In this super-digital “I wanted it yesterday” microwave kind of world, it comes as no surprise that many of our clients don’t have time to approve samples - there is just no time to wait for samples to come in, be mailed or Fed Exed.  The projects ships next week - or worse yet, tomorrow!

And even when there is (a little) time to send out samples, think about what they may be costing us - all of us - in terms of the environment.  Let’s take a single sample pack with 4 different fabric swatches inside as an example.  As a Just-In-Time provider and a non-stocking manufacturer, putting together just one sample kit for a customer goes something like this:

• Call the fabric mill / supplier and check availability of fabrics in question
• Order a yard of each fabric from the mill / supplier to be sent to our location via Fed Ex Overnight for labeling
• Dispatch the sample kit to the client via Fed Ex Overnight

At this point, there is not even an order yet!  And at least two Fed Ex packets have been sent.  If the fabrics came from multiple mills / suppliers, or if the customer required multiple sets of the sample kit to be sent (perhaps 1 to the set designer and another to the lighting designer), there could have been 4 or 6 or 8 Fed Ex packets sent for this one project alone.  And if none of the fabrics work out, or if the design changes, the whole process may start again.

It is not about the financial cost - which could be as little as eight dollars or as much as $150.  It is about the cost to the environment to send all of these Fed Ex packets flying throughout the country (and even worldwide).  The gas, the emissions, the traffic conjestion.  Last week we sent out 7 sample kits via Fed Ex Overnight - and that’s just what went out from here - it doesn’t count incoming Fed Ex packages with samples from our suppliers.

So - perhaps the answer is to have a video archive of all commonly used fabrics - showing them in a controlled environment, subjected to the same lighting and motion.  While it would not combat the fact that the color you see on a video is probably not true to the fabric, it would give a designer a better idea of what the cloth is going to do and how it will react to lighting.  If I were a marketing student, or perhaps studying textiles, I think this would be a fascinating project to tackle.

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Focus On: Voile

Have you ever wondered what “voile” is?  I am sure you have seen this fabric many time, but you may not have known that you were looking at voile.

Voile is a fine plain weave (no nap) lightweight sheer fabric, similar to organza.  It is used for both apparel (typically women’s blouses and dresses) and drapery.  The name “voile” is a French word meaning “veil,” and so the name describes the appearance of the fabric - sheer and filmy like a bridal veil.  Voile may be made from a variety of fibers, including silk, cotton, rayon and polyester.

Drapery voile is typically made from polyester fibers, including Trevira ®, Avora ® and other polyesters.  It is a wide fabric, typically measuring 118″ wide.  Often, residential window sheers and canopy bed draping are made from voile, but voile is also used in professional applications. 

One professional application of voile is as custom stage curtains in music tours, selected by production designers for its beautiful romantic feel (especially when pleated) and the way it lights so beautifully.  As a matter of fact, we made voile drapes for the Rod Stewart Tour, and they were gorgeous - with the colored lighting, it is hard to believe that these drapes are actually white.  Surprisingly enough, it can also be used as a projection surfac, such as in the Beyonce tour, or even as a Twinkle-Light Drape.

Due to its terrific draping qualities, voile is frequently used by event planners to line and drapes tents and otherwise decorate venues, especially for weddings.  We have also seen it used for exhibit booths - a few years ago, we provided voile drapery to Heaven Hill Distilleries, for use in their exhibit booths in a major trade show event. 

Voile comes in a wide variety of colors, though we find that shades of white are the most requested, as the fabric lights so well.  Voile can also be digitally printed, and is particularly effective with an ethereal image such as shown in the Luna Guitars booth.

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Focus On: Velour vs. Velvet

Rather frequently, we are asked the difference between velvet and velour.  On that note, I thought I’d offer an explanation.

Velvet usually refers to an apparel (lighter) weight fabric.  It is a woven napped (cut pile) fabric that historically was made from silk, but today can be made from a variety of fibers, usually cotton or synthetic fibers (such as polyester or nylon).  Some velvets are used for theatrical drapery, most notably Crushed Velvet.  Apparel velvet is typically not flame retardant, but velvets intended for theatrical use often are treated for flame retardancy.

Theatrical velour (sometimes referred to as theatrical velvet), also a napped (cut pile) woven fabric, has a similar feel and appearance to velvet, but it is typically of a heavier weight, usually ranging from 16oz up to 32oz per linear yard.  Cotton velour has been the standard in theatrical drapery for many years, but recently synthetic velours are being used more frequently, due to the inherent flame retardancy and greater durability of the synthetic fabric.

Knit velour, typically made from cotton, is often used in apparel (remember that velour lounging suit you had in the ’70s).  At first glance, knit velour may appear similiar to velvet or theatrical velour, as it has a soft nap feel.  However, it is actually quite different.  As a knit fabric (rather than a woven fabric), it is soft but has a great deal of stretch, making it comfortable to wear but not generally appropriate for use in theatrical drapery.

As a side note, the word “velour” is originally a French word translating to  “velvet” in English.  No wonder it is confusing here in the U.S.!

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Wondering how to clean synthetic fabric drapes?

In reviewing my posts over the last 9 months or so, I noticed that, while I had shared information on how to clean and maintain cotton velour drapes, I haven’t posted about cleaning drapery made from a synthetic fabric, whether it be a synthetic velour or another synthetic fabric.  So, I thought it was about time that I do so!

The first thing to consider is whether the fabric is topically treated for flame retardancy (FR) or is inherently/permanently/durably flame retardant (IFR/PFR/DFR).  Generally, you can find out this information by reviewing the Certificate of Flame Retardancy issued by the drapery manufacturer.  This is important, because some synthetic fabrics must still be topically treated for flame retardancy.

If your drape has been topically treated for flame retardancy, the drape must be dry-cleaned, using the same procedures as my earlier post for cleaning cotton velour.   Do not launder or otherwise clean with liquids!

However, if your drape is from an inherently/permanently/durably flame retardant fabric (such as Avora® or Trevira® polyesters and many other polyesters), you have the option to either launder or dry clean.  Smaller drapery can be machine-washed in any home washing machine.  Larger drapery should be professionally laundered or dry-cleaned.  Be aware that there could be a small amount of shrinkage (generally not more than 1%) when laundering.

Washing

• Wash lights and darks separately
• Hand wash or machine wash (”Delicate” cycle)
• Cold water
• Mild detergent (such as Woolite®)
• No bleach
• Hang dry or tumble dry at low to medium heat
• Once drapes are dry, immediately hang or roll to prevent wrinkling

Dry Cleaning

• Request the use of fluorcarbon solvents under easy care conditions

Spot Cleaning of non-velour fabrics

• For drapes made from fabrics without a nap (such as Poly Muslin), you can also choose to spot clean if the drape is generally clean but has one or two small spots 
• Use a stick stain remover (such as Tide To Go®) to help prevent water stains (which could result through use of spray and rinse type stain removers).

Maintenance

Proper maintenance can extend the life of the drapery.  If drapery is kept hanging (such as in a theatre), dust may accumulate on the drape.  To remove the dust, first brush the back of the drape, working from the left side to the right, using a soft bristled brush.  For non-napped fabrics, next brush the face of the drape in the same manner.  For napped fabrics (such as a synthetic velour), brush the face twice - first brushing the entire face of the drape by going against the nap and then brush the entire face of the drape by going with the nap.

If your drapes do not remain hanging but are instead stored for later use, make to store them properly.  Do not store in plastic as this can cause moisture to accumulate (which could lead to mildew or mold).  Instead, store in a Sew What? drapery bag or in a canvas bag or hamper.  To minimize wrinkling, fold along the width and then roll the drape from the bottom up to the top.  If possible, hang the drape several days before needed so that wrinkles can “hang out.”

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Crossword Clue

Just got a fun Google alert…the word “scrim” was used in the LA Times Crossword Puzzle on December 7th, and information on it was posted on the blog “L.A. Crossword Confidential.”  A number of people left comments asking what scrim is, and one blogger, JOHNSNEVERHOME, gave a brief explanation and then posted a link to “Description of Stage Curtains” page of the Sew What? Inc. website.

Anyway, I really enjoyed this unexpected reference to us.  If you’d like to check it out, go here and scroll down through the comments a bit.

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More on Metal Mesh

Back in July, I posted a photo of a cool drape that we made for our sister company, Rent What?, from aluminum mesh.  Well, I thought it was time that I told you more about it.

If you are looking for a cool industrial look, a metal mesh drape is a great option.  It is very dramatic and provides a textured background for effective and unique lighting effects.  It is also available in different tints, giving interesting color and texture even when in an unlit condition.

It is also surprisingly light - a 30′ h x 10′ w leg weighs just 15 pounds (compare that to an unpleated Commando leg of the same size - which weights about 25 to 30 pounds). 

And when you are loading out the show, just push the mesh drape into a hamper - no folding required.  When you get to the next venue, pull it out, hang it, and “fluff it” to size.  After all, wrinkles are not only expected - they’re preferred with a metal mesh drape!

This really is a great option for a tour - as a matter of fact, it was just what legendary rock band Journey wanted for their 2009 tour, and Rent What? was ready and able to provide them.

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Anti-Bacterial Polyester?

I recently learned about Trevira CS Bioactive.  It has all the FR characteristics as the regular Trevira CS, which I posted about recently, but it also has something extra.

Just as additions are made in the chemical stage to make Trevira CS inherently flame retardant, silver ions are added in the chemical stage to make Trevira CS Bioactive permanently antimicrobial, without diminishment through washing or age.

The information that I am reading seems to focus mainly on Trevira BS Bioactive in use in apparel (the manufacturer mentions it is “compatible with skin”), so I am not sure the extent of the need for antimicrobial properties in stage curtains, but it certainly is interesting.

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Fun & Challenging Projects - Part 2

Rod Stewart Tour Custom Plaid

In late 2006, we were approached by the tour’s designer.  The designer had a great idea - design the entire set around fabric.  But not just any fabric - the Stewart Family Tartan.  The problem: there wasn’t a Stewart Family Tartan fabric available in the grand scale needed for custom stage curtains - most available tartan fabric is on a scale that would be lost in a large arena.  Despite (or perhaps because) of the challenges, we jumped right in to find a solution.  Here is what we did:

• Found a traditional textile dye house with a drum printer that could print this grand scale Stewart Family Tartan onto 1,500 yards of 100% cotton fabric
• Had the printed fabric custom flame-proofed through topical treatment
• Cut the fabric extremely carefully to allow exact pattern matching (very difficult in a large format)
• Sewed those 1,500 yards into pleated skirting and drapery, including a 36′ h x 160′ w Austrian Drape, which would be hung on a circular mechanical truss and raised and lowered for this “In the Round” show
• Did it all in three weeks from start of project to delivery of finished soft goods, in time for rehearsals prior to the tour’s mid-January 2007 opening show

Here is a photo of the finished drapery, installed for rehearsals

Isn’t this gorgeous and dramatic?

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Avora and Trevira Polyesters

I’ve been doing a little research lately, in regards to Avora and Trevira polyester fabrics.  I thought it would be interesting to find out what distinguishes them from each other and from the old garden-variety polyesters, and then pass that info on to my readers. 

Apparently, there was intially one fabric called TreviraFR.  At some point, the company that manufactured TreviraFR split into two completely separate companies.  One company began making “Avora®FR” (typically refered to as “Avora”) and the other began making “Trevira CS” (typically refered to as “Trevira”).   However, from everything I have read, it appears that both fibers are manufactured in the same way.

During the manufacture of the fiber, an organic phosphurus compound is added to the polyester polymer, changing the chemical structure of the polyester fiber.  The resulting fiber has a lower melting point than “regular” polyester fibers, which allows causes the fibers to melt away from the flame.  This means less combustion, fewer melting drips and self-extinguishment. 

Because the flame retardant compound is added during the manufacture of the fibers themselves (rather than during the weaving process of turning fibers into fabrics), the fibers (and the resulting fabrics) are considered inherently and permanently flame retardant.  The flame retardancy will not be removed though washing or dry-cleaning.

By comparison, “regular” polyesters do not have the extra organic compound added to the chemical structure of the fiber, they are not considered “inherently” flame retardant.   While as a general rule most polyesters tend to be permanently flame retardant (as opposed to many natural fibers, such as cotton, which are considered non-flame retardant unless topically treated), not all polyester fabrics are permanently flame retardant.  Some are, some are not.  Some factors that may affect the flame retardancy of a polyester fabric are:  the fabric weight, the type of weave, and the nap (if any).  Those that are permanently flame retardant are referred to as “durably flame retardant,” meaning that the flame retardancy is long-lasting and generally will not be removed by normal washing and dry-cleaning.

Not surprisingly, fabrics made from Avora and Trevira fabrics tend to be a little more expensive.  Why?  Because of that extra step in the fiber manufacture, in which the chemical structure of the fiber is changed to increase its flame retardancy.  Does this mean that a fabric made of ”plain” polyester is a lesser choice?  Not necessarily.  It just means that you should understand what you are buying and, if you are not sure of flame retardancy specifications of that fabric, ask for clarification from your fabric or drapery supplier.

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